I had treated myself to this lovely week in Arles for my birthday this year, but on the actual day, all I wanted to do was don my hiking gear and go for a hike. I'd looked up several online and the one I picked was a 15km walk from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in a loop around the Alpilles, a mountain range in Provence that I had seen before and which looked like a landscape you'd see on the moon!
I had been to Saint-Rémy before in 2016, so vaguely remembered where I was as I pulled the car in and parked. The parking area for the walk was an old cemetery car park, which seemed like a safe enough place to leave the car. I also left a frozen 2L bottle of water in the car as it was a hot day and I assumed I'd need it when I got back. I donned my hat and off I went.
The walk promised to be "along large, clearly-marked, shady trails. Beautiful viewpoints over the Alpilles, the village and the château des Baux-de-Provence. The fragrant plants of the South and also pines and even cedars". It was all of this, I only wish it had been slightly better sign-posted, as I ended up going the wrong direction at one fork, and then upsetting a French man nearby by accidentally walking through his garden. Apologising profusely, I got on the right path and kept going.
From there I ended up on the top of the ridge looking over Provence. You could even see the famous Mont Ventoux, with its signature bald white top and meteorological station. It was a little hazy due to the heat, but beautiful, and the air smelled divine - warm, slightly dusty but with the smell of cedars and other trees nearby. They need to bottle that, it is an addictive smell!
After a hard slog up a hill, I made it to a lookout over Le-Baux-de-Provence, a village that's set atop a rocky outcrop in the Alpilles with a castle (and a lot of tourists). It almost looked disguised amongst the rocks of the Alpilles from my vantage point!
I had also been to Le-Baux before while driving around France, so I didn't really feel the urge to go back, but after climbing to the top the rocks above my stomach made the decision for me. I had brought snacks with me and lots of water of course, but didn't have anything for lunch. So I walked all the way there.. which seemed like a good idea but it was a lot further away than it seemed. The walk also required walking along a road and then going up a steep set of stairs, which I don't think my legs appreciated! But I made it there, bought a sandwich (I was far too sweaty for fine dining) and had dinner on a terrasse overlooking the mountains.
I also decided for a second time that Le-Baux was nice, but far too touristy for me.
I set off again, walking back up to the lookout after my 5km return detour and head back towards St-Remy.
I made it back to the car and gratefully grabbed the half-frozen bottle of water - I was SO glad I'd thought to do that. I had planned to drive into St-Remy and pop to some other little villages nearby but I was stuffed. Well and truly wrecked.
Instead, I drove back to Arles, stopped in a bakery and picked myself up a raspberry tart, and went back to my accommodation for a shower and a cuppa.
That night, I took myself out to a lovely restaurant called Gaudina, where I had a delicious dinner and dessert (and wine!). Well deserved too I think after all the walking! . Happy birthday to me!
