Day 13: Livinhac-le-Haut to Figeac. 24.92km
There was a lot of low cloud this morning when I woke up. I got up and packed up my things. The German men who had been late last night had turned up around 9:30pm and they were at the breakfast table this morning. Breakfast was a very nice setup, and Corinne, the host, had lots of different options.
I was the last one out this morning – I always find repacking my bag took ages to do especially when I had washed my clothes, as I had to put them back into my clothes bag. And usually there was very little left in my bag overnight too, most of it came with me. I finally got moving and left.
The first port of call, it seemed, was always a walk uphill. We were now in the department of the Lot, having left Aveyron behind.
There was a bit of walking through people’s farms this morning before getting to Montredon. There was a lovely big church here but the main drawcard for pilgrims was the little pilgrim shelter, offering tea and pastries. It was so nice! I met a German lady called Christina there, as well as another Australian, a man from Melbourne. We had a bit of a chat and I realised that there were no open boulangeries or anything here. I’d planned on getting a sandwich but it was a Sunday. Christina was kind enough to let me cut off some of her bread to take with me so I wouldn’t go hungry. Bit of a fail on my part, I should have had a look around Livinhac but I was running late so wanted to get moving.
After my cuppa, I went and looked inside the church which had some really beautiful stain glass. Then I went looking for a loo – it was one of those stand up ones that are rather difficult with a backpack on!
There was quite a lot of little enclaves with farms and houses along the route today. I also saw two army helicopters coming over. I was listening to music as I walked and was singing aloud, but then I started listening to an audio book, as the route was not that complicated or particularly interesting.
We ended up in a tiny church in the middle of nowhere called Felzins. They had a pilgrim stamp there so of course I got a stamp. I also bumped into Christina, who was trying to buy tickets for the Peche Merle cave in a few days. She was struggling with her German cards online so I offered to use my card and she could give me the cash, since she had shared her bread with me. It worked and she gave me the money and then I never saw her again to ask how it was. I hope she enjoyed the cave!
The walking was nice through fields, and along dirt roads. At one point I walked past this Aire that someone had set up and I was going to keep walking on but I heard Ellen call me over. Everyone was there and the lady who was running the place had so much food on offer. I ended up buying some of her soup and a cookie. It was very much appreciated.
I continued on, then I ended up in a little village where there was a huge family having a party at one of the picnic areas. It sounded like fun but it was getting late and I was keen to get to my accommodation for the night.
I wandered into Figeac, which involved quite a lot of road walking and it wasn’t all that safe. I had booked accommodation on Booking, staying in a little apartment for two nights so I could rest my knee and wash everything properly and just have a break.
I got to the apartment and knocked. I told the host I would be there between 3 and 4 and I was but no one was there. I tried a few more times then noticed a key safe on the outside of the door. I tried to send her a message but she didn’t reply.. I tried again multiple times. I even paid $20 for roaming because I had very little reception and thought I could call her. It didn’t work because even on roaming there wasn’t enough phone reception and they don’t use data to call in France like they do in Australia now. So I sat there, after walking 24km, getting cold, hungry and waited for someone to answer. It took over an hour and she sent me the code. It turned out that she’d sent it via text, which I didn’t get because there was no phone reception on the Camino. Useful.
I finally managed to get inside. Once I had the code, I struggled with the damn door handle which was so unnecessarily complicated and dumped everything by the door. I was tired, cold and cranky. I went to have a shower and warm up a little. Then I went to find a supermarket. The first one I went to on Google maps in the town centre wasn’t there anymore, so I kept walking to the Carrefour on the outskirts of town which was thankfully open. I had no idea what to get. I thought about making something but in the end I got a tin of cassoulet, which was something I enjoyed eating while I had been campervanning in France before. I bought some dessert and some bread and veggies, apples and sparkling water then carried it all home.
I realised later that there was no kettle in the flat, and no washing machine, both of which I really had hoped for. So I washed all of my clothes bar a top and pair of undies, and turned the heating up so it would dry and I wouldn’t freeze. And made a cup of tea with a saucepan on the stove.
It was a cozy flat, only ok though in terms of comfort. But at least it was warm, quiet, and mine for two nights.
Accommodation: 6/10. Treacherous stairs, no kettle or washing machine, bad organisation and lighting of the kitchen. Not enough TP. Shower was broken. Door was stiff and hard to open.