Day 8: Saint-Chely-d’Aubrac to Saint-Come-d’Olt. 17.07km
I was the last one to leave my gite today, which was very unusual, but I was moving rather slowly so maybe not that unusual given the circumstances! My knee was taped up, but it was very stiff this morning and going downstairs was painful. Never mind, I carried on!
I went to the epicerie first thing to buy a sandwich, there were only two left, and as I was leaving I saw Michelle from Nasbinals. She’d asked me that day what colour my poncho was and I replied “Blue, you can’t miss it” and she joked today that no, you can’t!
I went back to the epicerie to wait while she bought a sandwich. We then left the town, heading up onto the hills. There was a great view over the town, though it was cloudy and rainy.
The weather was pretty miserable again today and I was slow going. Fast up the hills but painfully slow going down. It was SO nice to have someone to talk to though – I could speak in my regular speed and about things that we had in common. She was from Adelaide and was retired now and had walked other Caminos and trails around the world. Very impressive.
The way seemed much less of a slog due to company as well. It was also countryside and very pretty – we seemed to be out of the moors and the change of scenery was nice.
We also happened upon a pilgrim shelter where there was coffee and tea on offer – so needed on a miserable day! I saw the couple from Nasbinals and a few other people I recognised, and we all greeted each other like long lost friends. It was such a nice community vibe.
Much of today was just countryside walking but we did walk over an old bridge and past some old broken down stone sheds. I think the latter were for storing hay or something similar.
We then walked along a ridge and could see Saint-Come from there. The weather was slightly better which was great, and, as we came into the town, it was time for Michelle and me to split – I was staying at the Convent, which was outside the town, and she was staying in the village. I never saw her again after that, so goes the friendships you make on the trail.
I walked up the hill to the convent. I was a little early (they opened at 3, and we’d only had a short walk today), but they ushered me inside.
Somehow I’d managed to find the only English-speaking host in the whole place and he was great – remembered my name through the whole stay and remembered to speak to me in English which was so kind! I went into the library and waited with another guy called Evan.
At 3 they called Evan and then me. I was to go to pay for my stay and then the host showed me to my room. We went up a lift (crazy and unexpected in what was a very old building), then to room 301. There were 7 beds in the apartment – Evan had scored the double bed in his own room, while there were two beds in one bedroom and 4 beds in the kitchen. I took one of the beds in the room with only two beds. I was soon joined by a lady named Corinne, who could speak English and was thus my designated translator for the evening!
I had a shower and washed my clothes, though there was no heating and I was a little concerned that they wouldn’t dry. I also made a cup of tea since there was a kettle – winning! I had to book some accommodation so I set about doing that while the rest of the apartment filled up. First, the couple who I’d been shadowing from the first stage (Patrice and …. I wish I could remember the lady’s name! I’m so sorry!), then a new face that I hadn’t met before. She couldn’t speak any English so it was difficult to communicate in my terrible French.
We all went downstairs at 6pm, the nuns were showing a video about the convent then taking questions, but I had no idea what was going on. We then went for a wander of the grounds. It was a beautiful place – sadly I didn't take any photos, just videos on my phone which was silly of me!
Dinner time came around and we all filed into the kitchens and grabbed a tray and put food on our plates. The food was warm, hearty and filling. They had wine too, and I had a splash. Corinne and I sat with the couple that I knew from day 1, but the tables were for 4 people so the new lady from our room couldn’t fit. It was the couple’s last night, I found out. They had been going to keep walking but the lady had problems with her calf muscle, so I gave her my cork massage ball when we went back to the room later. It was sad to see them go, they were always so nice and jolly but they had booked the Compostell’Bus for the next morning. It was Corinne's last day too, as she was taking a taxi to a train station!
We went back to the room and I gave the lady the ball. The other lady who couldn’t fit on our table came in. She was having a conversation with everyone and mentioned to them that she had a sore knee. I think she was debating whether or not to leave the Camino. So…. I showed her my knee, all taped up! I said to her, via Google Translate, that I’d hurt it several days ago and that the tape was helping to stabilise it. Did she want me to tape up her knee too? Honestly, I’ve never met anyone more grateful for the help. I taped her knee up and she said it felt better, and I hoped she could continue. She could not thank me enough which was very sweet. Her name was Bea and we became good friends over a taped up knee.
It was time for bed and I checked all my clothes – still damp – and tried to reorganise them a little. I’d warned everyone that I was getting up early so set my alarm and went to sleep.
Couvent de Malet. 8/10. Lots of rooms but they crammed 7 people into a room rather than space them out. Cheap. Food was simple but good. Spoke a bit of English. Would go back, the atmosphere alone was great.
